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This may take weeks, almost all of it spent waiting for things to dry/harden.Īt this point apply the finish as you normally would. This filling step should be repeated, with ample time for curing between passes, until very fine sandpaper shows only a sheen where the blemish once was. Allow it t dry/harden (this minimizes cracking), then cut it back down to the wood surface with the fine sandpaper. It's indistinguishable from the natural wood. It makes up a filler that's identical in solid and finish resin components to the overall wood and finish itself. Work the mud into the blemish, leaving it a tiny bit mounded. Wet sand atop the cracks with this, using large circles to pick off surface wood evenly, building up a muddy slurry of very fine wood dust and the finishing material. Deep cracks get filed with a combination of the chosen finish material, very fine sandpaper, and elbow grease.
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Do it at least twice to drive that finish deep into the wood grain.Īgain, give it a good chance to deep dry. Be certain it's bone dry.Īssuming an oil finish is the goal use the chosen oil finish material oil, heavily diluted with the spirit/alcohol mix, to saturate the new cork-dry wood. Finish it all up with another pass using the spirits/alcohol mix.Įventually, give it a good chance to deep dry. The acid itself may be neutralized with a mild solution of sodium bicarbonate. Be very careful, acids/alkalines can ruin bluing. A mild acid, like lemon juice, can neutralize and also bleach out some of that but you may have to live with some of it. Staining, as observed above on the shotgun forend, originating with metal contact, has a good chance of being at least partially due to iron oxidation staining. Checkering can be scrubbed out with a moderately stiff brush (no metal).
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Avoid rounding off any edges or decorative carving. I do this in several passes, keeping the wood saturated by rewiping it with paper toweling saturated in the mix, and working over the surface with fine textured 3M Scotch Brite to remove old finish residue. The solvent ratio is not critical as long as one or the other constitutes at least 1/3 of the mix, purer alcohols (90% vs 70%, 99% is usable but dries out hands unmercifully) can reduce grain welling from the included water. All metal caps and liners, etc., should be removed beforehand. My approach with 60-80 y/o Garand wood has been to saturate the wood with a mixture of odorless mineral spirits and isopropyl alcohol. Smith work is very very long, and that crowd isn’t getting younger, so I’d like to learn to do my own work.) (The waiting list for gunsmiths who do a lot of L.C. Bed the action and locks (so they still fit) to the stock with acraglass gel, reinforcing any cracks with staples suturing across thenĭoes anyone have a favorite process for removing oil from wood? I’ve seen recommendations for painting on a mix of diatomaceous earth and mineral spirits, and brushing it off and replacing it when discolored or dry, but I want to make sure I’m not missing anything that could cause serious issues.Wick superglue into any cracks and gently clamp the cracks closed.Get all of the oil out of the wood in the inlet.The consensus for Elsies seems to be to do the following: I’d like to keep it that way when I use it for doves every year, in part because I think one of the best ways to honor them is to use their tools to do what they loved. The wood is mostly in good shape, and the finish is nearly pristine. One of the guns I inherited from my grandad is a 1930 LC Smith side-by-side (originally his father’s).